I have said time and again that I hate it that so many restaurants don’t take bookings. You either sit people in 5 minutes or if you can’t, then for the love of all that is holly, take bookings. So, when a chef friend took me to Franco Manca (Tottenham Court Road branch) and I saw the queue he had to hold me in place by force. OK, I’m exaggerating, he promised me that I would not regret it. And I didn’t. Franco Manca is one of the very very very few places where I am happy to wait.